Actually, Trastevere was a good deal less seedy than I had expected. There was hardly any laundry hanging in the street (perhaps it would dry so dirty you had to wash it again). The plaster on the walls looked moderately OK.

What I really, really hated was the church, Santa Maria in Trastevere. And not just because it was difficult to get the light right.

The art seems to me very sentimental. Itīs all too rich. A failed version of Westminster Cathedral. So then we had to go for a drink …

Yes, even the sober chronicler

And then back to the house energetically to pursue the holiday

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