All holidays come to an end, and it was time to see whether the wonderful restaurant where MC gets her Risotto ai Frutti di Mare was open. It was, but the quality is now far below the levels that she had experienced on earlier visits. And S Petronio was shut, on a Saturday evening.

This church has seen some memorable events, such as the crowning of Charles V in 1530; but no one has ever got round to finishing off the fašade. The city still seems to have been organising design competitions as recently as 2001.

Coming down from Amsterdam, we had got stuck in traffic jams on both sides of the St Gotthard tunnel. We decided to drive over the pass coming back. It┤s quite spectacular.

A last look back towards Italy. Some people went over (or at least, up to the top) in more traditional style:

When we got down to the motorway, we knew we were back in Northern Europe. Here is the Vierwaldstatterzee (Lake Lucerne) at Stans.

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